What's new
Star Army

Star ArmyⓇ is a landmark of forum roleplaying. Opened in 2002, Star Army is like an internet clubhouse for people who love roleplaying, art, and worldbuilding. Anyone 18 or older may join for free. New members are welcome! Use the "Register" button below.

Note: This is a play-by-post RPG site. If you're looking for the tabletop miniatures wargame "5150: Star Army" instead, see Two Hour Wargames.

  • If you were supposed to get an email from the forum but didn't (e.g. to verify your account for registration), email Wes at [email protected] or talk to me on Discord for help. Sometimes the server hits our limit of emails we can send per hour.
  • Get in our Discord chat! Discord.gg/stararmy
  • 📅 October and November 2024 are YE 46.8 in the RP.

Cranth Industries

Aendri

Aendri

Inactive Member
'hokay, so. Two things up for approval here, a company, and their first design. I really would appreciate some advice on the company, like whether it could use some more fleshing out, and if so where, and the like. Gun should be fine, though if I forgot anything, please point it out. I have this feeling there's something very obvious I'm missing.

Cranth Industries

LSSR-01a 'Wasp'

I'd also like a tip on how to put them in the right namespace, since I'm not too sure on that.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I gotta agree with Soresu here, Aendri. I typed out mostly everything he has already said.

The amount of chamber pressure generated by a gun firing a chemically propelled 10 mm, properly designed rifle round at 3,000 m/s has got to be enormous. We're talking naval gun-like pressures.

Unless the whole gun were made out of some very tough metamaterial, I don't see how it's able to handle that kind of pressure.

The problem here, man, is that you're going with cartridges to do this. Switch to a railgun, problem's mostly solved. I'd dump the bolt action and the sabot, but otherwise the rest of the weapon would likely be solid.
 
Why dump the sabot? Not actually opposed to that, just want a bit of clarification. I included it mainly as a precision round, as that was my understanding of it's purpose.

I think you're missing the point on my DR argument here, Soresu. I'm not trying to say it'll blow you up and all that, I'm saying that sucker will penetrate. If that's not accounted for in the DR system, then it really needs to be. The psi an AP round strikes a target with is completely different from the psi of a standard bullet the same size. Thus why AP rounds are usually considered higher penetration, but lower overall damage. If there's a separate way to mark in the penetration from the DR, then please tell me.

As to art, I do plan on finding someone who can do something quickly for me, because I don't even have a working scanner at the moment.

As to the railgun... I just don't know. I know it is easier to get it through like that, I just don't picture people buying a 'lightweight' railgun. This is meant to be easy to carry around, and easy to break down. I guess if you can do it with a railgun, I don't have as much of an argument, just as far as I know, a railgun doesn't work for that.
 
The sabot doesn't add precision. It's more to assist in armor penetration (cartridge has a lot of powder, can throw a smaller, lighter bullet faster and farther). You've got an AP round already; the sabot doesn't add to your weapon's capabilities.

Penetration's not really the issue. The problem is you don't have the right elements to create the penetration you want. All that pressure you're creating with a chemically propelled cartridge just won't be efficiently used to throw the round forward.

In fact, the only time it might work well is with a sabot, which could create a more efficient seal down the barrel.

Really, the railgun's the best bet. Yes, the gun wouldn't be as light, but you'll save weight in powder and cartridge brass when it comes to ammo.
 
Well. I think my points have been proven here. However. I wasn't referring to blowing people up. But you'd need, as Doshii said a strong material for the whole gun, or a naval gun in size for cartridges to do what you wanted.

Railguns would be simpler to explain. However, if you continue to insist on ADR 2 (Even though I would prefer you scale the max to ADR 1) that would be the only way. Plus, it wouldn't be semi-automatic. It'd be single shot unless you plan on over heating your rails (Bigger round, more power needed, more heat) and constantly replacing. That and I think it is a fair tradeoff. Plus would require a bipod mount as you'd still have some recoil I think. Smaller 'railgun rounds' can be semi-auto and wouldn't need it.
 
A bipod is actually one of the accessories included for purchase, and would probably be standard for any high-power or precision shots anyway.

I will switch it to the railgun, but I do need some information first, primarily the action. If it's not semi-auto, and can't be bolt action, what would it be? So far as I know, the only other single-shot mode is true single fire, musket style. Fire once, and reload. What if I just specified a built in refire limiter, to prevent overheating on a semi-fire mode?

Since materials came up, what materials should I make it? Light, sturdy, and decently inexpensive preferably.

And with the rounds being used in a railgun now, a tracer doesn't work, but would a sabot?
 
I'd make it from Durandium and/or carbon fibers or similar. For the rails, you want some kind of ferrous meta-material such as Nerimium, or you could use Origin's specially made Boreanium alloy, which is commercially available.

As for the action, there's nothing stopping it from being Semi-auto, it's just that the action must be powered electronically, not a problem considering that it needs to be powered just to fire a round in the first place.

Also, a tracer is still plausible, it just has to be sparked off by some mechanism inside the gun. A Sabot is also possible, just make sure that you know how a sabot works and explain how yours is different from a normal sabot round, if at all.
 
Anyone else have a problem with those suggestions? If not, I think I'll go ahead and make the changes he suggested, drop the sabot, and alter the tracer.
 
Hey, just an imput,

You said that if it wasn't bolt or semi auto, it had to be muzzle loaded. Well I have come with news. Breech loading is still avliable for your gun, there are three types I came to talk about.

Break Action:
Like a overunder shotgun or side by side. You can make this only use one shot and use a hammer or pinfire.

Trap door Action:
Basicly there is a little door on the action and you just slide the round in and fire, open the door and chamber another round. It is single fire though but is still very accurate. Downside is, its hard to maintain and has a tendency for the casing to get lodged in the barrel.

Rolling Block Action:
This is what I would choose. Its sorta like a lever action, but only holds one round. Very accurate and reliable, there are actually a few Rolling Block guns on the market in the game, although none are for military use.
 
Titus, all of those are either semi-auto, or a bolt-action esque style. More to the point, none of those work with a railgun impulsion system, so the point is moot.

Unless there are any problems, I'd like a final review, since SSharp said this was good to go.
 
RPG-D RPGfix
Back
Top